Category: Garden

Vegetables Like to Be with Friends Too

For those in the know, companion planting elicits thoughts of power and passion, mystery and magic. After all, the fact that simply choosing the right plants to grow together should make such a huge difference, is awesome, if mind-boggling.

It’s not a new concept. Gardeners have been consciously growing plants that help each other in natural ways alongside each other for centuries. It’s just that the growth of the organic plant movement in the 1970s highlighted and popularized the idea for ordinary, domestic gardeners. 

What is Companion Planting?

By definition, companion planting, quite simply, involves planting flowers and vegetables that like each other together. Essentially, when grown in the right combinations, certain plants will help other plants grow and protect them as well.

As Allison Kosto, Montana State University extension agent states, “Undoubtedly, plants influence each other. Sometimes this is positive and sometimes negative.  Companion planting is the art of growing plants near each other, because of their ability to enhance or complement each other.  Even though there is little research and science, there is a long history starting back in ancient times behind companion planting with supporting anecdotal evidence.”

But, as she says, it’s not that simple. There is no doubt that the idea of companion planting works, but it is also important to have a broad knowledge of plant associations and intercropping. We will explore these ideas in a later article, but for now, let’s look at how this all started.

The History of Companion Planting

Researchers have found that people have known about the benefits of companion planting for centuries.

The 3 Sisters

Probably the oldest example of companion planting goes back 8,000-10,000 years. Using a technique now commonly known as the 3 Sisters, native Americans grew beans, corn, and squash together because they did well together.

In essence, squashes provide the ground cover that stifles weeds and conserves moisture. The sweetcorn supports the beans as they grow, and the beans provide nitrogen that enriches the soil once they have finished growing. Who knows whether the native Americans had any idea of why the so-called 3 Sisters grew so well together, but the concept has been passed down to their descendants.

Writings of Marcus Terentius Varro

We know more about the Greeks and Romans and their ideas about companion planting from Marcus Terentius Varro. He wrote a book on agriculture in the 2nd century BCE that provides invaluable information. It makes fascinating, though rather tedious reading, and covers a huge range of topics including the seasons, benefits and disadvantages of animals on the land (think manure), and companion planting.

This short excerpt relates to companion planting:

❛The manner in which your neighbor keeps the land on the boundary planted is also of importance to your profits. For instance, if he has an oak grove near the boundary, you cannot well plant olives along such a forest; for it is so hostile in its nature that your trees will not only be less productive, but will actually bend so far away as to lean inward toward the ground, as the vine is wont to do when planted near the cabbage. As the oak, so large numbers of large walnut trees close by render the border of the farm sterile.❜

So, don’t plant cabbages near your grape vines and avoid planting walnut trees anywhere near other plants!

A Chinese Tip

More than 1,000 years ago, Chinese farmers started to use mosquito ferns as a companion plant for rice crops. The ferns do what beans do to add nitrogen to the soil. They also block sunlight from other plants which would negatively impact the rice.

And it continues from here…

Companion Planting & Organic Gardening

The move to organic gardening started in the 20th century, largely as a protest against all the chemicals that were being used in large-scale agriculture. The rediscovery of companion planting is just one of the results.

If you log into Amazon, you’ll find dozens of books about companion planting. My two favorites are Carrots Love Tomatoes and Margaret Roberts’ Companion Planting. I’ve got both of them and page through them often. Both are available on Amazon if you’d like to buy!

Louise Riotte, who wrote Carrots Love Tomatoes as well as Roses Love Garlic, is an institution in the world of American gardeners. She wrote more than a dozen books and based much of her work on American folk wisdom.

Margaret Roberts was one of Southern Africa’s first organic farmers and a leader in the industry. She wrote more than 40 books and everything she wrote about came from personal experience. Happily, her daughter, Sandy, has continued to maintain the Margaret Roberts Herbal Centre.

1 – Growing from seed problem

I HAVE tried growing proteas from seed. Without exception, every germinated seed has withered and died within days of its appearance, presumably from “damping off”. What causes damping off? What factors or circumstances aggravate and contribute to the problem? What can be done prior to planting seeds in trays so as to avoid or lessen the possibility of damping off? I understand one can sterilise soil before planting by watering with a solution of potassium permanganate, Milton, Jeyes fluid or a Dynone/Benomyl cocktail, and even by heating the soil. If one does treat the soil in this way, how long should one wait before sowing the seed?

The commonest cause of damping off is soil-borne fungi. Many factors aggravate the problem: the spores may be present in the soil; seedlings which are crowded are more likely to be attacked than those which are spaced well apart and have plenty of ventilation; plants that remain wet at night are more likely to be susceptible; hot humid weather, especially at night lack of garden hygiene irregular watering; the soil should be kept evenly damp, but not saturated.

damping-off – a plant disease occurring in excessively damp conditions, in particular, the collapse and death of young seedlings as a result of a fungal infection. The disease is commonly caused by fungi of the genera Pythium (phylum Oomycota) or Fusarium (phylum Ascomycota).

Sterilizing the soil, either by baking in the oven or steaming it. Washing the seed pans with Jeyes fluid. Disinfecting the soil with Jeyes fluid. Watering the seed pans with Benlate (active ingredient benomyl) or Dithane (active ingredient mancozeb) after the seeds have been sown, and repeating two to three weeks later.

Drenching the seed pans with any remedy which has copper oxychloride in it, eg, Cupravit, before sowing the seed. Or using a Chesthunt compound as soon as the seedlings emerge. You can make up your own Chesthunt compound by mixing two parts of finely ground copper sulphate with 11 parts of fresh ammonium carbonate (by weight).

Store in a stoppered glass jar for 24 hours before using. Dissolve 28g in a little hot water and make up to 9 litres with cold water. Use this preparation as soon as you have made it up and water the seedlings with a fine watering can rose.

If the soil is drenched with the remedies mentioned above, and the seedlings are sprayed with Benlate or Dithane two weeks later, they should remain healthy.

The substances mentioned by you will not sterilize the soil: they will only disinfect it. This is what one authority says about permanganate of potash: “A deep pink solution of permanganate of potash is sometimes used to check damping off of seedlings; though Chesthunt compound does this more effectively”

Milton: it would not be advisable to use Milton as the chemicals in it could harm the seedlings.

Jeyes fluid is an excellent disinfectant. Prepare your soil mixture at least two weeks before use. Choose a clean surface such as concrete; spread a 10cm layer of sifted soil on this and saturate a solution of five tablespoons of Jeyes fluid to 4,5l water. Spread a second 10cm layer over the first and saturate that. Continue in this way until sufficient soil has been treated. Cover the heap with plastic sheeting or sacks for a week. Uncover and during the second week turn the soil several times to dry out and air. If the soil has to be kept, store it in clean plastic bags.

To sterilize soil put it in shallow pans in the oven at a temperature of 93 degrees for an hour. To sterilise by steam, bring about 3cm of water to boil in a large container, tip in dry sifted soil, put the lid on the container and steam for 20 minutes. Tip out onto a clean dry surface and, when dry, store in clean plastic bags until needed. Sterilised soil can be used immediately.

2 – Begonias from seeds problem

Begonia seed sown in the spring came up very well but the seed pan developed a hard surface with a greenish film. This apparently inhibited the growth of the seedlings and quite a few died off. These were grown in a ground-up bark growing medium and watered with seedling hydroponic mixture by standing the seed pan in water and occasionally spraying with a mist spray. They were grown in a warm room in a window that receives the morning sun. They were also sprayed with fungicide.

I suggest that next time you sow begonia seed you use the John Innes seed-sowing mixture, made up as follows: two parts good garden soil sifted through a 9mm sieve and, if possible, sterilized; one part imported peat or well-made compost sifted; one part clean coarse sand (all by bulk).

3 – Strelitzia growing from seed problem

I would like to grow strelitzias from seed.

Sow the seed in spring in well-drained, friablë soil. Keep the seed pans moist at all times. The seed germinates best at a temperature of between 18 degrees C and 24 degrees C. Germination is slow; the first seedlings will only appear above ground after about two months. It is also erratic, which is why it is advisable to sow the seeds well apart so that the first seedlings can be pricked out without disturbing the others. Patience is the keynote to raising strelitzias from seed: not only is germination slow, but the seedlings take up to seven years to flower

4 – Seedlings damping off

I have lost a number of seedlings this summer and now my winter seeds are also dying off.

Your seedlings are probably “damp off”- which is caused by a fungus. Sterilize your soil either by baking it in the oven or with steam. To steam sterilise, put four or five centimetres of water (the amount depending on the size of the pot) in a large saucepan. Bring this to the boil, then tip in the dry soil mixture. Put the lid on and steam for exactly 20 minutes.

Tip the soil out onto a clean surface to cool, then put in clean plastic bags until needed

The best soil mixture to use is the John Innes No 1 made up as follows: two parts loam (good garden soil), sifted through a 9mm sieve, and one part peat moss.  If this is not available, use well-made compost, one part clean coarse sand. When you have sown your seeds, water with a solution of Dithane or Benlate and repeat in 10 days’ time. Keep the soil in the pans evenly moist, but not saturated. The day before pricking out the seedlings, water them with a solution of magnesium sulphate (epsom salt), and a heaped tablespoon to 4,5l water. This helps them stand the shock of being moved.

5 – Anthurium query

I HAVE managed to obtain some seeds after cross-pollinating some of my anthuriums. I was told that all I had to do was to set out the seed and sand or a mixture of sand and peat. This cannot be the correct method of raising these plants from seed as there was no germination at all.

It takes about a year for the seed to ripen and the seedlings take just as long to germinate. Sow the seed as soon as it is fully ripe in a mixture of sand and peat, just pressing them into the surface, as you were told. The seedpan/s must be kept in a close moist propagating case with a temperature of between 23,6 and 29,4 degrees C. The three important factors are high temperature (they are tropical plants) constant high humidity and the potting mixture must also be kept uniformly moist. Your seed may still germinate if you can give it the right conditions.

6 – Amaryllis from seeds

Recently we had red amaryllis in flower. They developed seed-pods, and when the pods opened, we planted the seed. Can you give us any information on them? Are they seeds? Will any germinate and how long does it take?

The plants do produce seeds and they should germinate in about 10 days if sown as soon as they are ripe and kept at a temperature of about 16 degrees C. The plants should flower in about three years. Do not overwater the seedlings in winter but, on the other hand, do not let the soil dry out, as the tiny plants do not die down.

7 – Jade vine seeds, how to plant

We have a jade vine growing in the garden. Recently, for the first time, the vine produced seeds in the form of a large pod. What is the correct way to plant these seeds?

Watch the pod on the vine and, as soon as it starts turning brown, place the foot of a nylon stocking over it and tie it at the top so that you do not lose the seeds when the pod is ripe. When it is ripe, collect the seeds and store them in an airtight container in a fairly cool place. The seeds must be dry before you put them in the container. In spring, soak the seeds in warm water overnight, then sow in friable, well-drained soil. Place the pan in a warm semi-shaded place and keep the soil evenly moist.

8 – Succulents and cacti

CAN YOU give me any information on growing succulents and cacti? What does one feed these plants? Can you grow them from seed? (We are in a semi-desert area.)

Because your climate is so dry, the nutrients are not leached out of the soil, so aloes, succulents and cacti need very little fertiliser. You can give aloes a little dry powdered chicken manure at the beginning of their flowering season. Other Succulents and cacti can be given two or three applications of weak Seagro fish emulsion during the growing season. Water before and after application.

When raising plants from seed, use a deep pan, about 150mm deep, so that the plants remain undisturbed until they have developed a good root system. The soil mixture must drain easily and the John Innes mixture would be suitable: two parts good garden soil, one part peat or compost and one part clean coarse sand (all by bulk). For succulents, etc, add another part of sand. To every 36l of this mixture add 42g of superphosphate and 21g of agricultural lime. Fill the bottom third of the seed pans with drainage material; place sufficient soil to come to within 50mm of the top of the pan, then finish off with about 30mm of finely sifted soil on top. Sterilize the soil and, when the pans have been filled, water with a very diluted copper solution three or four days before sowing the seed.

9 – Geranium propogation

I have a Geranium incanum growing beautifully in a large pot. It makes a lovely all-year potplant, but I have been unable to propagate it either by cutting, or seeds. There are lots of seeds and I would like to know how to get them to germinate.

Collect the seeds in mid-summer and sow them right away in the soil to which you have added some extra sand. It must be very well drained. The seeds should germinate in about a week.

If you would like to try cuttings again, put them in a mixture of two parts clean coarse sand and one part compost or peat and enclose the pot in a polythene bag. Put three or four small stakes around the pot to keep the polythene off the cuttings and inflate the bag by blowing into it, then tie the top securely. Place in a warm, semi-shaded position

Garden pests can sometimes be a headache for gardeners

While there are numerous garden pests found across the United States, I’ll provide an overview of some common ones that are prevalent in gardens throughout all 50 states.

Garden pests can be a significant challenge for gardeners in the United States, as they can cause extensive damage to crops, flowers, and ornamental plants. It is crucial to understand the characteristics and habits of these pests to effectively manage and mitigate their impact. Let’s delve deeper into some of the common garden pests found across all 50 states and explore additional strategies to control them.

These pests can cause damage to plants and crops, making it essential for gardeners to be aware of their presence and implement appropriate pest management strategies:

Aphids

Aphids range in color from black, gray, red, and brown to green and yellow (see main picture above). They are small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from plant leaves, causing them to curl and distort. They reproduce quickly, forming large colonies and transmitting plant viruses. Aphids, also known as plant lice, are among the most widespread and destructive garden pests.

They reproduce rapidly, producing live offspring without mating, leading to large infestations in a short time. These tiny, pear-shaped insects can be found in clusters on new growth or the undersides of leaves.

Aphids feed on plant sap, causing leaves to curl, wilt, and yellow. They are known vectors of plant viruses, which can further compromise the health and productivity of affected plants. To control aphids, gardeners can introduce natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings, use horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps, or even blast them off the plants with a strong stream of water.

Whiteflies

Tiny, white insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew, leading to mold growth and weakening the plants.

Whiteflies, closely related to aphids, are another sap-sucking pest commonly found in gardens. These tiny, moth-like insects congregate on the undersides of leaves, where they rapidly multiply and weaken plants with their feeding.

Whiteflies excrete a sugary substance called honeydew, which attracts sooty mold and can lead to further stress on plants. Yellow sticky traps can be an effective way to monitor and control adult whiteflies, while introducing beneficial insects such as parasitic wasps can help keep their populations in check.

Caterpillars

The larvae of butterflies and moths can be voracious eaters, damaging leaves and fruits of various plants.

Caterpillars can wreak havoc in gardens, consuming large amounts of foliage and leaving plants weak and vulnerable. Some well-known caterpillar pests include the cabbage worm and the corn earworm, both of which target specific crops. Hand-picking caterpillars and applying biological insecticides containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective ways to control these pests while minimizing harm to beneficial insects.

Slugs and Snails

These mollusks feed on tender plant foliage, leaving behind irregular holes and slime trails.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal pests that leave slimy trails as they feed on plant material.

They are particularly fond of tender, young shoots and can be detrimental to seedlings and emerging plants. To deter slugs and snails, gardeners can employ physical barriers like copper tape, handpick the pests during evening hours, or use iron phosphate-based baits that are less toxic to pets and wildlife.

Japanese Beetles

These are metallic green beetles with coppery wing covers that devour the foliage of many plants, often skeletonizing leaves.

Japanese beetles are notorious for their voracious appetite and can be a menace to a wide variety of plants, including roses, grapes, and fruit trees. These metallic green beetles congregate in groups and skeletonize leaves, leaving behind only the veins. Hand-picking Japanese beetles off plants and placing pheromone traps can help control their numbers.

Colorado Potato Beetles

These pests target potato plants, as well as other members of the nightshade family, defoliating them rapidly.

Colorado Potato Beetles are a significant threat to potato plants and can quickly defoliate entire crops if not controlled. Crop rotation, using floating row covers, and handpicking the beetles and larvae are effective methods to manage their populations.

Squash Bugs

Squash bugs feed on the sap of squash, pumpkin, and other related plants, causing wilting and death of affected foliage.

They can cause severe damage to squash and pumpkin plants by sucking sap and transmitting diseases. Removing eggs and nymphs from the undersides of leaves and placing boards or traps around plants can help reduce their numbers.

Tomato Hornworms

These are large, green caterpillars that feed on tomato plants and can strip them of leaves and fruit.

Tomato hornworms are the larvae of hawk moths and can rapidly strip tomato plants of their foliage. Hand-picking these large, green caterpillars and rotating tomato crops can mitigate their impact.

Cabbage Loopers

Cabbage loopers are caterpillars that primarily target cabbage-family plants, creating holes in leaves.

They can be managed by using floating row covers, applying Bt-based insecticides, or introducing parasitic wasps that target caterpillar pests.

Thrips

Thrips are tiny insects that damage leaves and flowers by sucking out plant juices, causing discoloration and deformation.

They are challenging to spot due to their small size, but their damage is evident through the discolored, deformed leaves and flowers. Regularly inspecting plants and using reflective mulch or sticky traps can help manage thrips populations.

Leafhoppers

Leafhoppers are small, jumping insects that pierce plant tissues and extract sap, leading to leaf curling and yellowing.

Spider Mites

These arachnids feed on plant sap, causing stippling and yellowing of leaves.

Spider mites thrive in hot and dry conditions, sucking sap from plant tissues and spinning fine webs. Regularly spraying plants with water to increase humidity and using predatory mites as biological controls can help keep their populations in check.

Rodents

Mice, rats, and other rodents can cause damage by nibbling on plants, roots, and fruits.

Rodents, such as mice and rats, can cause damage to plants and crops by gnawing on stems, roots, and fruits. Erecting barriers like fences and employing traps can help deter these pests from the garden.

Deer

These large herbivores can be a significant threat to gardens, as they consume a wide range of plants.

Deer can be both a nuisance and a challenge to manage, as they can leap over fences and are attracted to a wide range of garden plants. Some strategies to keep deer at bay include planting deer-resistant plants, using repellents, and installing motion-activated sprinklers or sound devices.

Rabbits

Like deer, rabbits and hares can cause damage by munching on various garden plants.

Rabbits are another common garden pest that can cause significant damage to plants, especially during winter when food sources are scarce. Fencing the garden with mesh wire and elevating raised beds can help protect plants from rabbit feeding.

To manage garden pests effectively, integrated pest management (IPM) practices are recommended. This approach involves a combination of preventive measures, cultural practices, biological controls, and targeted use of pesticides when necessary, aiming to minimize environmental impact and preserve beneficial insects. Identifying the specific pests in your region is crucial for implementing the most appropriate control strategies. Local cooperative extension offices and gardening resources can be helpful in providing region-specific information on garden pests and their management.

Gardeners across all 50 states in the USA must be vigilant in identifying and managing common garden pests to maintain healthy and productive gardens. Implementing integrated pest management practices, combining natural and targeted control methods, and being aware of the life cycles and habits of these pests are key to minimizing their impact on plants and crops while promoting a thriving garden environment.

To create a successful backyard vegetable garden, follow these steps:

Choose the Right Location: Select a spot with ample sunlight (at least six hours a day) and good drainage. Consider nearby structures that may cast shadows and ensure easy access to water.

Prepare the Soil: Clear the area of grass, weeds, and rocks. Loosen the soil using a garden fork or tiller. Add organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to improve soil fertility and structure before you start your backyard vegetable garden.

Plan Your Layout: Sketch a garden plan, considering the mature size of plants and their sunlight requirements. Group together compatible plants and consider crop rotation to minimize pest and disease issues.

Start with Quality Seeds or Seedlings: Choose healthy seeds or seedlings from reputable sources. Follow planting instructions and provide proper spacing between plants.

Water Regularly: Water the garden consistently, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Use a drip irrigation system or water at the base of plants to avoid wetting the foliage.

Mulch and Weed: Apply a layer of organic mulch to suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Regularly weed the garden to prevent competition for nutrients and space.

Fertilize Appropriately: Feed your backyard vegetable garden plants with organic fertilizers or compost tea to provide essential nutrients. Follow package instructions and avoid over-fertilization, which can harm plants.

Monitor for Pests and Diseases: Regularly inspect plants for signs of pests or diseases. Practice integrated pest management techniques, such as handpicking insects or using organic pest control methods when necessary.

Harvest at the Right Time: Harvest vegetables when they are ripe, following guidelines specific to each crop. Regular harvesting from your backyard vegetable garden encourages continued production.

Maintain and Rotate: After harvesting, remove plant debris, replenish the soil with organic matter, and consider rotating crops to prevent soil depletion and minimize pest and disease buildup.

Continuous Learning: Stay informed about best practices, attend workshops, and connect with local gardening communities to enhance your knowledge and improve your gardening skills.

Remember, each vegetable in your backyard vegetable garden has specific requirements, so research and tailor your approach accordingly. With patience, care, and proper maintenance, your backyard vegetable garden can yield a bountiful harvest of fresh and healthy produce for you and your family to enjoy.

In addition to the previous steps outlined, there are several other important considerations to keep in mind when creating a successful backyard vegetable garden.

By implementing these practices, you can further enhance the productivity and sustainability of your garden.

Companion Planting: Take advantage of companion planting, which involves growing different plants together that benefit each other in some way. For example, some plants repel pests that are harmful to others, while some plants enrich the soil with nitrogen, benefiting neighboring plants. Research companion planting strategies and create synergistic combinations in your garden.

Vertical Gardening: If you have limited space in your backyard, consider vertical gardening techniques. Vertical gardens utilize walls, trellises, or structures to maximize growing space. Vining plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and beans can be trained to grow vertically, saving ground space and providing an aesthetically pleasing display.

Crop Diversity: Plant a diverse range of vegetables in your backyard vegetable garden to promote ecological balance and reduce the risk of pest and disease outbreaks. Monocultures, where a single crop dominates, are more susceptible to widespread damage. By incorporating a variety of crops, you create a more resilient ecosystem that supports beneficial insects and reduces the likelihood of pests and diseases affecting your plants.

Season Extension: Extend the growing season by using techniques such as cold frames, row covers, or hoop houses. These structures provide protection from frost, allowing you to start planting earlier in the spring and continue harvesting later into the fall. Season extension methods are particularly beneficial for cool-season crops, enabling you to enjoy fresh produce for a longer period.

Water Conservation: Implement water conservation practices in your backyard vegetable garden to minimize water usage and promote sustainability. Consider installing rain barrels to collect and store rainwater for irrigation. Use mulch to retain soil moisture and reduce evaporation. Additionally, group plants with similar water requirements together, allowing for more efficient watering.

Organic Pest Control: Emphasize organic pest control methods to manage pests without relying on synthetic chemicals. Encourage beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and praying mantises, which prey on garden pests. Employ physical barriers like netting or row covers to protect vulnerable plants. Introduce companion plants that repel pests, such as marigolds to deter aphids.

Seed Saving: Save seeds from your successful crops to create a self-sustaining garden. Learn about seed-saving techniques for different vegetables, ensuring proper storage and labeling. By saving seeds, you maintain the genetic diversity of heirloom varieties and reduce reliance on commercially produced seeds.

Pollinator-Friendly Practices: Create a pollinator-friendly environment by planting flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These pollinators play a vital role in the reproduction of many vegetables. Avoid using chemical pesticides that can harm pollinators and opt for organic alternatives.

Garden Record Keeping: Maintain a garden journal or record-keeping system to track planting dates, varieties, and observations. This information will be invaluable for future reference, allowing you to learn from past successes and challenges. Record details such as pest outbreaks, weather patterns, and crop yields to identify patterns and make informed decisions for the following seasons.

By incorporating these additional practices into your backyard vegetable garden, you can optimize its productivity, sustainability, and overall success. Gardening is a continuous learning process, so don’t be afraid to experiment, adapt, and seek advice from fellow gardeners. Enjoy the journey of nurturing your plants and reaping the rewards of a flourishing vegetable garden.

Imagine the satisfaction of nurturing a tiny seed into a vibrant plant, then harvesting fresh, delicious vegetables for your table. Vegetable gardening offers a rewarding experience that connects you to nature and provides a bounty of healthy food. It’s a stress-relieving hobby that allows you to witness the magic of life firsthand. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the taste of a homegrown tomato, bursting with flavor that store-bought produce just can’t match.

Getting Started: No Green Thumb Required

The beauty of vegetable gardening is that anyone can do it, regardless of experience level. It doesn’t demand a vast amount of space, time, or money. With a little patience and these helpful tips, you’ll be enjoying homegrown produce in no time!

Finding Your Perfect Plot for Vegetable Gardening

Sunshine is Key: Most vegetables thrive in at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Leafy greens and root vegetables like lettuce, spinach, carrots, and beets can tolerate a bit less (around 4-6 hours), but for optimal growth, aim for the sunnier spots in your yard. If your chosen location gets less than ideal sunlight, consider planting shade-tolerant vegetables or incorporating shade structures for heat-sensitive plants during the hottest part of the day.
Water Wisely: Water is essential for plant growth. Locate your garden near a water source, such as a hose bib, for easy irrigation. Aim for an inch of water per week, delivered directly to the soil (not the leaves) to avoid disease. A watering can or a drip irrigation system are both effective methods. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot and nutrient leaching. Sticking your finger into the soil is a simple way to check moisture levels. If the top inch is dry, it’s time to water.

Choosing Your Garden Style

Container Gardens: Ideal for small spaces, balconies, or patios. Many vegetables like beans, carrots, lettuce, herbs, and even cherry tomatoes flourish in pots. Bigger containers are generally easier to manage as they hold more moisture and provide more root space for plants to grow. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants can also be grown successfully in containers, as long as the pots are large enough.
Raised Beds: Offer excellent drainage and warm up quickly in spring, extending your growing season. Raised beds are perfect for intensive planting, maximizing your harvest in a smaller space. You can construct raised beds from various materials like untreated wood, stone, or even recycled materials like bricks.
In-Ground Gardens: Traditional rows or planting beds allow for customization and larger yields. Consider crop rotation to prevent pest and disease problems that can build up in soil over time. This means planting different types of vegetables in the same spot each year. Community gardens are a great option for those seeking more space or a sense of community while gardening.

Planning Makes Perfect:

Before you grab your gardening gloves and seeds, take some time to plan your vegetable patch. Here are some key considerations:
• Measure Your Space: Knowing the dimensions of your garden will help you determine how many plants you can realistically grow.
• Sketch a Layout: Draw a simple diagram of your garden, allocating space for different vegetables based on their mature size and sun requirements.
• Research Planting Dates: Different vegetables have specific planting times depending on your climate and growing season. Cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and peas prefer cooler temperatures and can be planted in early spring and fall. Warm-season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers need warmer soil and should be planted after the last frost date in your area.
• Choose Your Plants!: Select a variety of vegetables that you and your family enjoy eating. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different types of lettuce, peppers, or heirloom tomatoes. Local nurseries and seed catalogs are great resources for finding unique and interesting varieties.

Planting Power:

Grow What You Love: Now comes the fun part – choosing your vegetables! If space is limited, focus on high-yield options like tomatoes, beans, root crops (carrots, beets, radishes), and leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, kale). Explore unique varieties for a gourmet touch! Heirloom tomatoes come in a rainbow of colors and offer a burst of flavor unlike anything you’ll find in a supermarket.
Timing is Everything: Plan for year-round harvests by using succession planting. Stagger planting dates to ensure a continuous supply of fresh produce throughout the season. For example, you can plant a new row of lettuce seeds every few weeks to enjoy a steady stream of salad greens.

Planting Smarts:

Seed Spacing: Refer to seed packet instructions for optimal spacing to ensure proper growth and air circulation between plants. Crowded plants compete for light, water, and
Seed Depth: Plant seeds only 2-3 times deeper than their diameter. A helpful rule of thumb is that small seeds like lettuce or carrots need shallow planting, while larger seeds like peas or beans can be planted a bit deeper. Gently firm the soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact, which aids in germination.
Transplant TLC: If you’re starting your vegetables indoors from seeds, the process of transplanting them to your garden requires a gentle touch. Harden off seedlings grown indoors by gradually exposing them to sunlight and outdoor temperatures over a week before planting. This helps them adjust to the harsher outdoor environment and reduces transplant shock. Mulch around transplants to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

The Art of Care:

• Watering Wisdom: Consistent watering is crucial for healthy plant growth. Check your soil moisture regularly, especially during hot and dry periods. Stick your finger into the top inch of soil. If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Water deeply so that the moisture reaches the roots, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot. Early morning is the best time to water, as it allows the water to soak into the soil before the heat of the day causes evaporation.
• Feeding Frenzy: While most vegetables don’t require heavy feeding, providing them with essential nutrients will boost their growth and production. A soil test will reveal your soil’s nutrient composition and any deficiencies. Based on the results, you can choose organic or synthetic fertilizers to supplement your soil. Remember, “less is more” when it comes to fertilizer. Overfertilizing can harm plants and pollute waterways.
• Mulch Magic: Apply a layer of organic mulch like shredded leaves, straw, or wood chips around your plants. Mulch conserves moisture by reducing evaporation, suppresses weeds that compete for resources, and regulates soil temperature by keeping it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.
• Season Extenders: Want to extend your harvest and enjoy fresh vegetables for a longer period? Utilize season extension techniques like row covers and cold frames. Row covers are lightweight fabrics placed over plant rows to protect them from unexpected frosts, harsh winds, and insect pests. Cold frames are miniature greenhouses with transparent lids that allow sunlight in while protecting plants from cooler temperatures. Both methods can help you get a head start on planting in the spring and protect your fall harvest from early frosts.
Pest Patrol:
• Healthy Habits: The best defense against pests is a healthy garden. Strong, healthy plants are less susceptible to insect invasions and diseases. Ensure your plants receive adequate sunlight, water, and proper nutrition to keep them thriving.
• Beneficial Buddies: Attract beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and praying mantises to your garden. These natural predators help control harmful pests like aphids, mites, and caterpillars. Plant flowering herbs like dill, chives, and borage to attract these beneficial insects.
• Companion Planting: Certain plants can deter pests when planted near each other. For example, strong-smelling herbs like rosemary and mint can repel some insects. Nasturtiums are known to attract aphids, acting as a decoy to protect other vegetables in the garden. Research companion planting strategies to find beneficial combinations for your specific vegetables.
• Early Intervention: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of damage or disease. Look for discoloration on leaves, holes in foliage, or the presence of insects. Early detection and intervention are key to preventing pest and disease problems from spreading. For minor infestations, try organic methods like insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. For more severe cases, consult your local nursery or gardening center for guidance on appropriate control measures.

Harvesting Happiness:

• Pick at the Peak: Knowing when to harvest your vegetables is crucial. Each variety has its own specific harvest time, so refer to seed packet instructions or consult gardening resources for guidance. Harvest vegetables when they are ripe and at their best flavor and texture. For example, tomatoes should be plump and yield slightly to the touch when ripe, while lettuce leaves should be crisp and green.
• Store Wisely: Once harvested, store your vegetables properly to maximize their freshness. Leafy greens like lettuce and spinach will last longer in the refrigerator if wrapped in a damp paper towel and placed in a sealed container. Root vegetables like carrots and beets can be stored in a cool, dark place like a root cellar or crisper drawer.
• Succession Planning for Continuous Bounty: Don’t let your garden bed sit empty after harvesting your first round of vegetables! Practice succession planting to keep your garden productive throughout the season. As soon as you harvest a crop, plant another set of seeds or seedlings in its place. This allows you to maximize your garden space and enjoy a continuous supply of fresh produce.

Overcoming Challenges and Troubleshooting:

Vegetable gardening is a rewarding experience, but it’s not without its challenges. Here are some common problems you might encounter and tips to overcome them:
• Poor Germination: If your seeds aren’t sprouting, there could be several reasons. Improper planting depth, inconsistent watering, or cold soil temperatures can hinder germination. Ensure you plant seeds at the correct depth according to the seed packet instructions. Water regularly, but not excessively, to maintain consistent moisture levels. If planting seeds early in the season, consider using row covers to warm the soil and create a mini greenhouse effect to aid germination.
• Leggy Seedlings: Seedlings that are stretched and thin with weak stems are likely due to insufficient light. If starting seeds indoors, ensure they receive plenty of bright light, preferably from south-facing windows. You can also supplement natural light with grow lights. When transplanting seedlings outdoors, harden them off properly to avoid transplant shock.
• Weeds: Those pesky weeds can steal valuable resources from your vegetables. The best defense is a proactive approach. Regularly hand-pull weeds when they are small and manageable. Mulching around your plants helps suppress weed growth by blocking sunlight. You can also try using organic weed control methods like boiling water or vinegar for tough-to-control weeds.
• Pests and Diseases: Despite your best efforts, pests and diseases may still invade your garden. Early detection and intervention are key. Monitor your plants regularly for signs of trouble. For minor infestations, try organic methods like insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. For persistent problems, identify the specific pest or disease and research targeted control measures. In some cases, using a row cover or removing infected plant parts might be necessary. Remember, a healthy garden with strong plants is less susceptible to pests and diseases.

Don’t Give Up! Keep Learning and Experimenting

Gardening is a continuous learning process. There will be successes and failures along the way. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t achieve perfection right away. Use your experiences to learn and adapt your techniques for the next season. Keep a garden journal to track your planting dates, varieties, harvest times, and any challenges you encountered. This information will be invaluable for future planning and will help you refine your gardening skills over time.

Resources for the Budding Gardener

There are many resources available to help you on your vegetable gardening journey. Here are a few suggestions:
• Local Cooperative Extension Office: A wealth of information on gardening specific to your region, including planting guides, pest control advice, and soil testing services.
• Gardening Books and Magazines: Numerous publications offer valuable information on vegetable gardening techniques, plant varieties, and troubleshooting common problems.
• Online Gardening Websites and Forums: Connect with other gardening enthusiasts, share experiences, and learn from others through online communities and forums.
• Local Nurseries and Garden Centers: The staff at your local nursery can provide expert advice on plant selection, suitable varieties for your climate, and organic pest control methods.
Embrace the joy of nurturing life and the satisfaction of harvesting your own homegrown vegetables. With a little planning, care, and a willingness to learn, you’ll be well on your way to a thriving vegetable garden that provides you and your family with fresh, delicious produce throughout the season.

How to Prevent and Treat for Common Pests

This is an overview of common pests and diseases in some general climate zones and some preventive and treatment measures:

1. Mild Climates (e.g., Southern California, Florida):

Common Pests: Aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, snails, slugs.

Common Diseases: Powdery mildew, botrytis (gray mold), root rot.

Prevention & Treatment:

Encourage natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings to control pests.

Regularly inspect plants and prune affected parts.

Use horticultural oil or neem oil to combat pests.

Improve air circulation to reduce fungal diseases.

Ensure proper watering practices to avoid root rot.

2. Temperate Climates (e.g., Northeast, Midwest):

Common Pests: Japanese beetles, slugs, caterpillars, scale insects.

Common Diseases: Tomato blight, rust, downy mildew.

Prevention & Treatment:

Handpick or use traps for large insects like Japanese beetles.

Apply organic pesticides like Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) for caterpillars.

Use copper-based fungicides for fungal diseases.

Rotate crops to prevent soil-borne diseases.

Water plants at the base to avoid wetting foliage.

3. Hot & Arid Climates (e.g., Southwest):

Common Pests: Spider mites, aphids, grasshoppers.

Common Diseases: Sunscald, blossom end rot.

Prevention & Treatment:

Regularly spray water on plants to deter spider mites and aphids.

Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs to control pests.

Provide shade during extreme heat to prevent sunscald.

Mulch and maintain consistent soil moisture to prevent blossom end rot.

4. Cold & Northern Climates (e.g., Northern Midwest, New England):

Common Pests: Cabbage worms, Colorado potato beetles, slugs.

Common Diseases: Late blight, powdery mildew.

Prevention & Treatment:

Use row covers to protect plants from pests.

Handpick insects like cabbage worms and Colorado potato beetles.

Promote good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.

Apply fungicides preventively during wet periods.

Clean up garden debris in the fall to reduce overwintering pests.

A Few More Tips

• Remember that local factors such as microclimates, specific plants grown, and prevailing weather conditions can influence the types of pests and diseases you encounter.

• Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a sustainable approach that combines prevention, monitoring, and appropriate treatment to manage pests and diseases effectively.

• Always follow the instructions on the labels of any pesticides or fungicides you use and consider environmentally friendly alternatives whenever possible.

• Additionally, local cooperative extension offices or gardening clubs can provide region-specific information and guidance.

REMEMBER: Please store all poisons and harmful substances in a safe place out of the reach of children.

Local climate, soil conditions, and specific gardening zones play crucial roles in determining which plants will thrive in each state. Always consider these factors and seek advice from local experts or horticultural resources before planting.

General Guidelines for Selecting Shrubs:

1. Evergreen Shrubs: These maintain their foliage throughout the year, providing year-round interest and some privacy. Good options include Boxwood (Buxus), Rhododendron, and Holly (Ilex).
2. Deciduous Shrubs: These lose their leaves in winter but often offer beautiful flowers or attractive fall foliage. Examples include Forsythia, Hydrangea, and Dogwood (Cornus).
3. Native Species: Choosing native shrubs is beneficial as they are already adapted to the local climate and support local wildlife. Examples include Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) in Northern states and American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) in Southern states.
4. Drought-Tolerant Shrubs: For arid regions, consider plants like Lavender (Lavandula), Russian Sage (Perovskia), and Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis).
5. Salt-Tolerant Shrubs: In coastal areas, plants like Beach Rose (Rosa rugosa), Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica), and Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) can handle salty conditions.

General Guidelines for Selecting Creepers/Vines:

1. Climbing Roses: These add beauty and fragrance to gardens. Varieties like New Dawn and Climbing Iceberg are popular choices.
2. Clematis: With numerous flower colors and forms, Clematis vines are versatile and can provide vertical interest to fences and trellises.
3. Honeysuckle: Known for their sweet scent, honeysuckle vines like Lonicera sempervirens and Lonicera japonica are attractive to pollinators.
4. Virginia Creeper: A fast-growing vine with vibrant fall foliage, making it an excellent choice for adding color to walls and fences.
5. Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): A hummingbird favorite, trumpet vine produces large, trumpet-shaped flowers.

Remember that local climate, soil conditions, and specific gardening zones play crucial roles in determining which plants will thrive in each state. Always consider these factors and seek advice from local experts or horticultural resources before planting.

The Best Plants For Each State (short list)

Keep in mind that the best plants for each state may vary depending on local microclimates, soil conditions, and gardening zones. It’s always a good idea to consult with local gardening experts or extension offices for more accurate and up-to-date recommendations.

1. California: California’s diverse climate ranges from Mediterranean to desert and mountainous regions. Consider planting drought-tolerant shrubs like Lavender, Rosemary, and Ceanothus (California Lilac). For creepers, Bougainvillea and Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) can thrive in California’s warm and sunny conditions.

2. Texas: Texas experiences a mix of climates, from humid in the east to arid in the west. For shrubs, consider native options like Texas Sage (Leucophyllum spp.), Anacacho Orchid (Bauhinia lunarioides), and Flame Acanthus (Anisacanthus quadrifidus var. wrightii). Creepers like Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) and Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) are good choices for Texas.

3. Florida: Florida’s tropical and subtropical climate allows for a wide variety of shrubs and creepers. Consider planting Evergreen Viburnum, Firebush (Hamelia patens), and Simpson’s Stopper (Myrcianthes fragrans) as shrubs. For creepers, options like Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) and Passionflower (Passiflora spp.) can thrive in Florida’s warm and humid conditions.

4. New York: New York experiences a continental climate with cold winters and mild summers. For shrubs, consider versatile options like Hydrangea, Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), and Spirea. Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris) are good choices for climbing vines.

5. Arizona: Arizona’s climate is mostly arid and semi-arid, with hot summers. Drought-tolerant shrubs like Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata), Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens), and Agave are suitable choices. Creepers like Bougainvillea and Honeysuckle can add color and interest to Arizona landscapes.

6. Alaska: Alaska’s climate is diverse, ranging from subarctic to maritime. For hardy shrubs, consider options like Dwarf Arctic Willow (Salix purpurea ‘Nana’), Elderberry (Sambucus spp.), and Alaska Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum edule). While some hardy climbers can grow in Alaska, extensive creeping vines may have a limited range due to the harsh climate.

7. Washington: Washington state experiences a wide range of climates, from temperate rainforests in the west to drier conditions in the east. For the western regions, consider planting shrubs like Rhododendron, Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium), and Salal (Gaultheria shallon). For creepers, Honeysuckle and Clematis are excellent choices. In the drier eastern part, drought-tolerant shrubs like Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) and Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus spp.) are suitable.

8. Montana: Montana has a diverse climate, with cold winters and hot summers in some areas. For hardy shrubs, consider options like Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum), Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), and Snowberry (Symphoricarpos spp.). Creepers like Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) and Creeping Raspberry (Rubus pentalobus) can thrive in certain parts of Montana.

9. North Dakota: North Dakota’s climate is characterized by cold winters and hot summers. For hardy shrubs, consider planting American Hazelnut (Corylus americana), Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana), and Dogwood (Cornus sericea). Creeping vines like Virginia Creeper and Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) can add charm to landscapes.

10. Minnesota: Minnesota experiences a continental climate with cold winters and warm summers. For shrubs, consider options like Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius), Winterberry (Ilex verticillata), and Potentilla. Creepers like Clematis and Climbing Hydrangea can add vertical interest to gardens.

11. Hawaii: Hawaii’s climate is tropical, with varied conditions across islands and elevations. For shrubs, consider planting Hibiscus, Plumeria, and Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae). Creepers like Hawaiian Sunset Vine (Stictocardia beraviensis) and Allamanda are suitable choices for Hawaii’s warm and humid climate.

12. Louisiana: Louisiana’s climate is humid and subtropical, with hot summers and mild winters. For shrubs, consider options like Azaleas, Camellias, and Sweet Olive (Osmanthus fragrans). Creeping vines like Confederate Jasmine and Trumpet Vine can thrive in Louisiana.

13. Maine: Maine has a humid continental climate with cold winters. For shrubs, consider planting Blueberries, Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens), and Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea). Creeping vines like Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum) and Virginia Creeper can be suitable choices.

Please note that the suggested plants are not an exhaustive list, and there are many other suitable options for each state. Always consider local conditions, soil types, and gardening zones before making plant selections. Seek advice from local experts for the best results in your area.

Remember that this is just a general guide, and local conditions may vary within each state. Always consider the specific location, climate, and soil conditions before selecting plants for your garden. Consulting with local gardening experts will provide the most tailored advice for each state and region.

For each state, the best plants for shrubs and creepers will depend on factors such as the state’s climate (temperature, rainfall, humidity), soil type, and local gardening zones. It’s essential to consider the specific region within each state, as there can be variations in microclimates.

Here is some general advice for selecting plants:

1. Consider Native Species: Native shrubs and creepers are well-adapted to local conditions and often provide essential habitat for wildlife.

2. Check Hardiness Zones: Determine your state’s USDA Hardiness Zone, as this will help you choose plants that are most likely to thrive in your area.

3. Evaluate Soil Conditions: Different plants have varying soil preferences. Make sure to assess your soil type and select plants accordingly.

4. Sunlight and Water Requirements: Take note of the amount of sunlight and water available in your garden to choose plants that match those conditions.

5. Space and Purpose: Consider the space available for planting and the purpose of the plants (e.g., privacy, ornamental, attracting pollinators).

For more specific and accurate recommendations, I suggest consulting with local nurseries, garden centers, or agricultural extension offices in each state. They will have the expertise to provide you with the most suitable plant options for your specific location.

Companion planting is an ancient agricultural practice that is based on growing different plant species near to one another to provide mutual benefits. In a nutshell, the primary goals of companion planting at home include increasing crop yields, controlling pests and diseases, and improving soil fertility.

By PENNY SWIFT

While there is anecdotal evidence and historical practices that support companion planting, the scientific research on its efficacy is a bit limited. Some plant combinations may have beneficial effects, while others may not live up to their reputation. Ultimately, do we need science or personal experience to prove whether companion planting works or not?

Does Companion Planting at Home Work?

There is absolutely no doubt that some plants grow much better when you plant them next to, or even amongst other plants. Like people, good companions have the ability to shelter one another and give support in various ways. These include sharing nutrients, chasing away bad bugs, and attracting insects that will pollinate their companions.

Even though companion planting is recognized to be one of the least understood ecological subjects, it also appears that companion plants (again like people) are often opposites. So, some plants that love the sun will provide shelter for those that don’t. Some plants with shallow roots are happy to share their environment with those that have deep-growing roots.

Similarly, some slow-growing plants do well with those that grow slowly, because their needs vary at different times. For instance, a plant that flowers early will produce pollen and nectar that might attract insects that benefit the second plant. Heavy feeders often do well with light feeders or those that need different nutrients. They often stimulate biological activity in the soil that benefits the heavy feeders.

By paying attention to the plants that do well together, as well as those that don’t like one another, you will find that you are able to grow a much wider variety of plants in your backyard. You will also find that it is a lot easier to control pests and produce disease-free crops.

In essence, companion planting is a method of planting and growing various plant species together for mutual benefit. Ultimately, if you choose the right companions, this type of planting will help you to produce a healthy, organic, and really “green” garden that will be sure to flourish.

Common Companion Planting Principles and Their Benefits

Here are a few companion planting principles and basic benefits to inspire you.

Pest control

Some plant combinations repel pests or attract beneficial insects that prey on harmful ones. For example, marigolds are often planted alongside vegetables to deter pests like aphids and nematodes. At the same time, they will attract ladybugs that eat many harmful insects. Also, planting onions with carrots can deter carrot fly, and carrots can help deter onion fly, benefiting both crops. And growing aromatic herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage near cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower can help repel pests like cabbage moths.

Disease suppression

Certain plants have natural properties that can help suppress diseases in nearby plants. For instance, growing basil near tomatoes is believed to reduce the incidence of tomato diseases like blight.

Nutrient enhancement

Some plants can improve soil fertility by fixing nitrogen or adding organic matter. Legumes, such as beans and peas, are known for their ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil, benefiting neighboring plants that require nitrogen.

Space utilization

Companion planting at home can make efficient use of space by combining plants with different growth habits. For example, tall plants like corn can provide support for climbing plants like beans. A good example explains why carrots love tomatoes. Carrots have a relatively shallow root system, while tomatoes have a deeper one. By planting them together, you can make efficient use of the soil depth, allowing both crops to thrive without competing for root space.

Weed suppression

Planting certain species together can help smother weeds and reduce weed competition for crops. For example, the “three sisters” is a classic Native American planting method where corn, beans, and squash are grown together. Corn provides a trellis for beans to climb, beans fix nitrogen for the other two, and squash spreads along the ground, suppressing weeds.

A Scientific Approach to Companion Gardening

Despite its limitations, there is some scientific and quasi-scientific research that is informative. Generally, companion planting is considered to be a small-scale gardening practice – which is why companion planting at home makes such a lot of sense. It’s a practice that you and I can use in our gardens, not one that commercial growers are likely to embrace.

According to ATTRA (Appropriate Technology Transfer for Rural Areas), a national U.S. center for sustainable agriculture information, the concept embraces different strategies that increase the biodiversity of agroecosystems. They also explain that contemporary companion gardening has evolved from a combination of historical observation, horticultural science, and a few unconventional sources.

In a technical horticultural paper, Companion Planting: Basic Concepts & Resources, George Kuepper and Mardi Dodson outline the scientific foundations for companion gardening. They are trap cropping, symbiotic nitrogen fixation, biochemical pest suppression, physical spatial interactions, nurse cropping, beneficial habitats, and security through diversity.

Trap Cropping

This is when a companion plant is selected to attract pests that a neighboring crop. For example, collards (a type of Brassica that is related to cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts), are planted alongside cabbages to attract the diamondback moth away from the cabbage crop.

Symbiotic Nitrogen Fixation

This approach involves planting legumes (including peas, beans, and clover) that absorb nitrogen from the atmosphere for their own use, and then transfer nitrogen into the soil. Similarly, forage legumes are often seeded with grasses to reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizer. Also, beans are sometimes planted with corn.

Biochemical Pest Suppression

When chemicals seep out of the roots or stems of certain plants they can repel or suppress pests that would normally attack nearby plants, including tomatoes, sugar beets, and soybeans. The best-known example is the marigold (Tagetes spp), which releases thiophene, a proven nematode repellent, into the soil.

Physical Spatial Interactions

Many tall-growing plants that thrive in the sun grow happily with plants that prefer to be in the shade. A good example is corn grown with low-growing squash or pumpkin.

Nurse Cropping

Here, tall plants with thick foliage protect more vulnerable species by shading them or shielding them from the wind. Although similar in concept to physical spatial interaction, nurse cropping is often used to protect certain crops. So, for instance, oats will be sown so that alfalfa can establish itself in the shadow of the oats.

Beneficial Habitats

This encompasses habitats or environments that are provided by companion plants for the benefit of insects that are beneficial (rather than harmful) to plants.

According to ATTRA, predators include ladybird beetles, lacewings, hoverflies, mantids, robber flies, and non-insects including spiders and predatory mites. Parasites include a wide range of fly and wasp species including tachinid flies and ichneumonid wasps.

Security Through Diversity

This is a more general approach that involves mixing crop varieties to at least ensure a yield from some of them. A fascinating example is the simple mixing of cultivars by University of California researchers who have shown that broccoli can reduce aphid infestation in certain crops.

Companion Planting Chart for Home and Market Gardening

ATTRA has compiled this simple chart from traditional literature the researchers have found on companion planting at home. It is designed to inspire you and me!

Crop	Companions	Incompatible plants
Asparagus	Tomatoes, parsley, basil
Beans	Most vegetables and herbs	Onions, garlic, gladiolus
Beans (bush)	Irish potato, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery, summer savory	Onions
Beans (pole)	Corn, summer savory, radish	Onions, beets, kohlrabi,sunflowers
Beets	Cabbage and onion families, lettuce	Pole beans
Cabbage family	Aromatic herbs, celery, beets, onion family, chamomile, chard, spinach	Dill, strawberries, pole beans, tomatoes
Carrots	English pea, lettuce, rosemary, onion family, sage, tomatoes	Dill
Celery	Onion and cabbage families, tomatoes, bush beans, nasturtiums
Corn	Irish potato, beans, English peas, sunflowers, radish	Tomatoes
Cucumbers	Beans, marigolds	Irish potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant (aubergine)	Beans, marigolds
Lettuce	Carrots, radishes, strawberries, cucumber
Onions family	Beets, carrots, lettuce, cabbage family, summer savory	Beans, English peas
Parsley	Tomatoes, asparagus
Pea (English)	Carrots, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, corn, beans	Onion family, gladiolus, Irish potatoes
Potato (Irish)	Beans, corn, cabbage family, marigolds, horseradish	Pumpkins, squash, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflowers
Pumpkins	Corn, marigolds	Irish potato
Radishes	English peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers	Hyssop
Spinach	Strawberry, Faba bean
Squash	nasturtium, corn, marigolds	Irish potatoes
Tomatoes	Onion family, nasturtium, marigolds, asparagus, carrots, parsley, cucumber	Irish potatoes, fennel, cabbage family
Turnips	English peas	Irish potatoes

Promoting Good Relationships

Ultimately, successful companion planting relies on good relationships, often between pairs. Usually, one plant has the ability to do one thing, while the other offers something else. But sometimes it seems that certain plants simply do well together – like cheerful children who have special playmates. For example, parsley and asparagus generally both thrive when planted together. Tomatoes and basil also do well together, even if basil does not impart any flavor at all to the fruit of its tomato plant companions as some insist they do!

Fascinated? Why not give it a try and let us know how well companion planting at home works for you?